Bali Day 1 - I get ripped off, Molly gets street wise.

 

Finally, I've landed in the perfect environment for sitting down with the laptop and getting the word out to the Internets that Bali Rules as does their local brew, Bintang.  I will refer to Bintang beer many times in these posts. In fact, I shall now take on Bintang as my middle name.  Feel free to call me Binny.

The delightful young man smiling into my MacBook's PhotoBooth lens is Nick, or Nit.  Hopefully, he chose Nick as his Western name, otherwise I will have to gently inform him as to the real meaning of "nit" and its direct reference to lousy, Qwell and nitpicking. Let's just call him Nick for now, Nick of the famous Bali institution Poppies II Cottages and Restaurant, in the heart of noisy Kuta, the primary tourista area of the island. 

Poppies II has been around since the 70s, providing beds and Bintang to travelers and surfers.  Its delightful walled gardens and cottages are tucked away in an alley named after the establishment, Poppies II. This makes finding the place rather straightforward, as you can imagine.  It's also the perfect hideaway for this all important effort of Blogging on Bintang - cool, relatively quiet save for the occasional roar of a 350cc motorbike and, the best part, I can stay as long as I wish and eat and drink whatever I want for cheap.  Thus far I've consumed a delicate chicken and vegetable soup, grilled whole fish with various condiments and fresh lime slices, French pressed coffee, bottled water and a large bottle of Bintang.  This lovely luncheon and brew took a mere $12 US bucks out of my money belt.  Like I said, Bali Rules.

It is Friday, July 18th and as my dollin Nina, the brilliant writer/blogger/rad mother noted, I am sending out these missives from the future.  Crossing the International Date Line turns an ordinary schmo like me into a prophet and, given these super powers, I am pleased to inform you that the future looks absolutely fine for the rest of you in yesterday.

This is Day 3 on Bali and our last night in the craziness of Kuta, a seaside tourist trap on the southeast corner of the island.  We will be escaping the little vendors, the "touts" who assail us at every turn, groups of local guys who holler "MAMA! You want transport?" to me and "DARLING, you want hair braids?" at the kid.  After the first five minutes upon arriving in town, Molly and I have been looking at our watches, on the ground, into our handbags, everywhere but at the face of the guys wanting Mama's and Darling's attention and American dollars.  I am very proud of my kid for getting hard nosed and badass so quickly.  Some of that is in her - Molly has demonstrated great street wisdom from an early age, certainly as the alpha female at her Montessori elementary school - but it's more likely she learned from a recent example of my ineptitude.  To wit:

We emerged from the eagle eyed scrutiny of the Bali customs officers in their screening process designed to bust any Westerner stupid enough to stash porn or pot in their luggage. The posters warning offenders that the death penalty would be applied to anyone attempting to infect this island with such contraband were disconcerting.  The death penalty? That's a little extreme for possessing a racy DVD and a pot brownie.   Needless to say, I was deep in thought considering the overly severe implications of such crimes and then thought once again about that disturbing Claire Danes movie as I pulled my rollaway off the luggage carousel.  While in that daze, two men wearing seemingly official uniforms whisked our luggage from our hands and took us over to another set of customs officials where our passports were reviewed one final time.  The porters wheeled our bags over to a money changer booth where they insisted we use their services, and it was then I realized we were being scammed.  In order to get our bags back they asked for a tip.  Actually, one of them made the international sign for money - rubbing his fingers against his thumb, as in "pay up, lady!" - and informed us with sinister smiles that "ten dollahs" would do.  I handed them two US dollars each, snatched away our bags, glared at them as they grinned back and began muttering like a maniac to Molly and anyone within earshot - "TWO MINUTES IN THE COUNTRY AND I GOT FUCKING RIPPED OFF!" 

And, I'm still muttering those very words.

I got over myself because the ride into town was entertaining, once we realized we were not going to die in a fiery crash.

On our way into Kuta. Behind the wheel, Agus of our hotel, the Bali Sorgawi, weaves in and out of traffic. This was the most peaceful moment of the drive, a second later, at least 20 mopeds crowded in front and around us. Boston drivers, take note - you think you're badass drivers? I know Beantown traffic and it scares the crap out of me every time I've visited. But, compared to this chaos, you're all amateurs.

Welcome to the Hotel Bali Sorgawi.  Not the best of lodgings, but a great price at $30 for an air conditioned room with hot water (at a premium in the cheapo hotels), a pool and breakfast.

Our room, cool and comfy with balcony and a TV that doesn't work.  I was disappointed that I couldn't watch Indonesian TV or, at least, CNN Asia.  But I got over that fast.

Battery's about to run out.  Will return after a stroll on the beach. 

Namaste, dollins!

Comments

[cursingmama]

Dearest Binny,
There is no doubt that a lack of television news (not that I think you are out of touch - you are blogging) is refreshing for ones soul. That and a good dose of Bintang will go a long way ;)

[Lisa]

Well Binny, you did start off with a bang didn't you? I would have been yelling too AND telling anyone within earshot of those f-ing scam artists. BUT I'm glad to know it didn't deter or interfere with the good time you're having.
Ah to be sitting in a foreign country, beaches at the ready being able to blog about it...in the future no less.
*clink* here's to more GOOD adventures!
XOXO

[Kris]

Dear Binny,

You are once again allowing me to live my life vicariously through your eyes. I can see you giving those a holes at the airport your badass Filipina glare. They have no idea how lucky they were to get off so easy.

[Lin]

Hey Bin,
Enjoying your Bali-blogging enormously. What a terrific gift...spending this time with your daughter, just the two of you. Perfect.

We're off to France on Tuesday...house swapping. Should be interesting! Continue to have fun, B.

L xo

[Elisson]

Selamat pagi!
Time to bloggy.

I am so envious...closest I ever got to Bali was across the strait, in Surabaya. But it's a world away, especially when you're there for work, not pleasure.

Selamat malam!
Laterz, dollin'.

[Jenn]

Hi binnies!!!

Great to hear the update and the mandatory getting ripped off story.... I hope Mama & Darling are having a great time. Cheers and have a Bali beer for me.

[gwendomama]

from the mighty oak drops the tiny acorn.

from the tiny acorn springs the mighty oak.

[Bakerina]

Why did it not occur to me that if you could Twitter from Bali and Flickr from Bali, you could blog from Bali, too? (smites forehead) Suis une tete du boit.

Binnylove, I am adoring your travelogue. Of course you know that I am all over the foodish stories, but really, I want to hear them all.

[Elizabeth]

Binny sweetie, I missed you at BlogHer, but I'm so glad you and Moll are having a wonderful time in Bali! Besides, San Francisco is wicked expensive. I didn't leave my heart, but I left a TON of cash :) love ya!

[Tricia]

Binny? I really, really like it!

[zoe]

Binny-Grace, welcome to my hood!! well, um, hemisphere? ocean? welcome anyway, it's lovely to have you!

hope you enjoy your bali-time, and LOVE LOVE LOVE the hair! so cute!